Clifton Park

Vintage Postcard of the Clifton Park Mansion House in 1912. 

Clifton: Johns Hopkins' Summer Retreat

Posted: March 29, 2021

Updated: July 29, 2023

Johns Hopkins purchased Clifton Park in 1841 and used it as his summer residence until he died in 1873.[1] Tax records from 1841 note that the property was 166 acres in size (see image below); the only residents at that time were a few cows and horses. Over the years, Hopkins bought up land adjacent to Clifton that added more than a hundred acres to the estate (in his will, Johns described the property as "about 330 acres" in size). In 1848, he hired the famous architect firm of Niernsee & Neilson to “superintend" a major renovation of the mansion house (first erected by Henry Thompson around 1802), while the landscaping improvements were overseen by highly skilled horticulturists trained in Scotland and England. 

Not unlike today, during the nineteenth century summer homes were popular extravagances for Americans who could afford them. They enabled urban residents to escape the punishing heat and "miasma" of the summer months. Before the germ theory of disease gained prominence, people believed that diseases such as cholera were generated by "bad air" that was itself a product of contaminated water supplies and poor hygienic conditions especially prevalent in cities like Baltimore. (Of course, Clifton, which was located only four miles from Baltimore, was not far enough from the town to avoid completely heat waves that hit the city. When the temperatures became too much to bear, Hopkins left for the Congress Hall Hotel at Cape May, New Jersey, on the Atlantic coast.)

For Hopkins, Clifton was more than just a place of bucolic convalescence. It provided an environment where he could recapture his youth and the tranquility of rural, agricultural life, not to mention cultivate rare plants and fruits.* He was also adamant that students attending his future university would learn horticulture and experience farm life there. William Fowler, Hopkins' long-time gardener, told the Baltimore Sun in 1893: 

"Mr. Hopkins was accustomed to say that the time was approaching when both agricultural and horticultural pursuits would come more to the front and be followed by a class of practical and scientific men. 'I want,' he would say, 'to help worthy young men who are lacking in means. These will want exercise, and in horticultural and kindred pursuits they will get it, and at the same time be learning something that will be of use to them in after life. I attribute my own strength to the days when I hoed corn and did similar work. It gave me physical vigor. Such work is natural and healthy and is a needed medicine for students."

Hopkins spent many years improving Clifton before it became his regular summer residence. By around 1850 the estate had been transformed into a rural compound that might have resembled a small village. Combining information from the census records and newspaper articles from the period, we can identify at least 28 people who lived in four separate households at Clifton during the summer of 1850, not including the four men enumerated on the slave schedule. Moreover, at least ten different craftsmen, architecture, construction, and remodeling companies worked at the property around this same time. Along with Johns Hopkins, his sister Hannah, and his niece Jane, there was an estate manager, carpenters, gardeners, and laborers. 

Unlike during the Thompson era (1803-1837), Clifton was a seasonal residence for Johns Hopkins. He lived at the estate during the warm months, arriving after May and sometimes remaining until well into the fall. In one letter, Johns says that they will leave the house at the end of November! Once Hopkins, his housekeeper (either his sister Hannah or sister Eliza), and his servants left the mansion house, those who occupied other buildings on the property, such as the Gatehouse, moved in. We know this from the recollections of a woman who occupied the gatehouse as a child and came to know Hopkins. These people, along with the occupants of the Gardener's Cottage and other outbuildings, were the estate's permanent residents. 

*Ed Papenfuse has posted on his blog Remembering Baltimore, an interesting article about the contents of Hopkins' conservatory: http://www.rememberingbaltimore.net/2023/05/blog-post.html 

Two articles that appeared in Baltimore Sun, one in 1852 and the other in 1893, are worth reading for their vivid descriptions of the mansion and grounds at Clifton. The 1852 article describes the improvements made to Clifton during the early 1850s, gives a flavor of the varied features of the estate and of the extensive renovations undertaken there by Johns Hopkins.

Baltimore Sun, February 5, 1852

“Local Matters: Improvements at ‘Clifton Park,’ Country Residence of Johns Hopkins, Esq.”

This magnificent county residence, situated on the Harford road, a short drive from the city, has lately been enlarged by an entire re-modelling of the old mansion, whilst the grounds have been greatly extended by the addition of several hundred acres, constituting it one of the most elegant, extensive and beautiful villas in this country. 

The central building has been raised one story, and received a considerable addition on the north side, besides the extension of the wings, and the building of a prospect tower on the west, with a wide arcade, 109 feet in length, the building measuring 133 feet in extreme length, by 73 feet, its greatest depth. From the gate lodge, at the Harford road entrance, a well gravelled road winds majestically through the fine trees and lawns of the park, to the main entrance of the building, the Port Cochere in the tower, affording passage through an archway into the principal hall, 23 feet high, paved with marble, lighted by four richly stained arched windows, and wainscotted with black walnut, of which the doors and massive stairway are formed. From the main corridor on the principal floor, the first door to the right leads to the parlor, 19 by 28 feet, adjoining which is the breakfast room, 18 feet square, both of which open on the large southern arcade, supported by 23 arches and pillar. Adjoining the breakfast room are the back stairs, running from the basement to the main chamber story, and also to the servants' rooms. Further east are the housekeeping rooms, closets, water fixtures, etc. 

Opposite the parlor is the dining room, 13 by 26 feet, which opens on the west to a spacious arcade of 5 arches; whilst a door on the east conducts to the large saloon, which is of elegant proportions, and 15 feet high, with a semi-circular room on the north 18 feet diameter. A folding door in the east wall connects the saloon with a library 20 feet square, which opens on the eastern arcade, looking towards the garden and lake. All these elegant apartments are supplied with elaborately carved Italian marble mantels, made in Italy. The main chamber floor and tower contain 8 large chambers, bath room, etc, also a large billiard room, 20 by 30 feet, opening on a terrace, over the bay room, and to another ever the north-eastern arcade, decorated by balustrades, with pedestals, supporting richly ornamented vases. The third floor of the central building has been appropriated for the use of the servants, containing a number of large rooms. The basement contains a large kitchen, servants' hall, washhouse, pantry and store-rooms, milk, vegetable and fuel cellars, and a large covered area under the southern and eastern arcades. A convenient stair leads from the second floor of the tower through the various stories of the pavilion, which is supported by twelve arches, and surrounded by an iron balcony, sustained by ornamental iron brackets. From the pavilion, a stair leads to the terrace of the tower, affording magnificent and extensive views of the entire city and surrounding country, the Patapsco and Gunpowder rivers, the broad, expansive Chesapeake, whitened by the sail of an increasing commerce, besides a bird’s eye view of the extensive park, with its richly ornamented grounds, the large artificial lake, with its islands and pretty little rustic bridges, the beautiful group formed by the gardener's lodge and conservatory in the terraced garden, and the extensive grapehouse and orangeries, stretching along several hundred feet, the ornamental structures scattered over the whole park with taste and judgment, as well as the finely tilled farm grounds beyond. The inviting panorama which meets the view from this point of observation is well worth a visit to the tower. The exterior of the villa is rough-casted to imitate free stonework and develops the graceful proportions of the "Italian Villa" style of architecture, with massive arcades, projecting cornices and brackets, depending for its effect on the varied masses and outlines of the whole rather than on the minuteness of its details. 

The entire improvement reflects credit upon the well known architects, Messrs. Niernsee & Neilson, who have designed and superintended the progress of the work, which viewed from a proper position, displays the most unexceptionable architectural beauty and excellence of design. 

But attractive as is the building, it would be unjust not to render a passing tribute to the admirable, extensive, and valuable conservatories and general out buildings of the place. The former contains exotic plants and fruit of surpassing excellence, even superior to those of foreign countries in flavor and size, whilst the floral departments may be viewed as an extensive and inviting horticultural exhibition, well repaying the time expended in a visit. The manager of the park and grounds, Mr. William Waddel, an old and experienced horticulturist, has exhibited very rare skill in the management of these valuable plants and fruits, all of which are in the very best condition. It may be worthy of mention that the proprietor has spared no means in the improvement of this great residence, the appearance of which as well as the grounds, evidences the skill and ability of Baltimore mechanics, and foreign artists. The production of the latter maybe seen in the hundred beautiful specimens of marble statuary and sculpture which are observed from every point. The following persons aided on the improvements: H.J. Bayley, carpenter; James Murray, brick layer; Jas. Sullivan, painter; Andrew Merker,*** iron worker; John Rothrock, roofing; Bevan & Sons, stonework; Hayward, Bartlett & Co. plumbing; S. W & H. T Gernhardt, glass stainers; George W. Starr, plasterer. 

*Misspelled "Waddel" in the 1850 census and in the Sun article; **misspelled "Sanders" in the 1850 census; ***misspelled "Merken" in the Sun article.

This 1893 article focus mainly on the grounds and landscape features at Clifton, with reflections from William Fowler, who served as Johns Hopkins' chief gardener for about 17 years.

Baltimore Sun, February 14, 1893

HOPKINS PARK. Beauties of Clifton Estate for Public Pleasure Ground. LANDSCAPE, FOLIAGE AND MANSION."

Mr. Wm. Fowler's Reminiscences of the Founder of the University and His Plans for His Suburban Home -- Fine View from a Tower -- Homewood Site. 

The suggested purchase by the city of Clifton, the estate of the late Johns Hopkins, for a public park will recall to those who are familiar with the estate its peculiar adaptability for the proposed purpose. Its use as a park would also, to a certain extent, be in line with Mr. Hopkins's wishes. If the estate becomes a public pleasure ground it is suggested that its proper designation would be Hopkins Park, in honor of the founder of the university, and because there is already a Clifton in another portion of the city. 

Mr. William Fowler, who came to Mr. Hopkins in April, 1856, landscape gardener and horticulturist. In a recent conversation with a representative of THE SUN gave some interesting reminiscences of Mr. Hopkins and his estate, his views and plans. Mr. Fowler says it was often the habit of Mr. Hopkins to talk about the disposition he intended to make of Clifton, and that he frequently remarked that be wished to see a portion of the grounds set apart as a park and gardens, so that the students of the university could secure exercise through the practical study of horticulture and acquire at the same time practical as well as scientific knowledge of the subjects they might be engaged in studying. Mr. Hopkins was accustomed to say that the time was approaching when both agricultural and horticultural pursuits would come more to the front and be followed by a class of practical and scientific men "I want," he would say, "to help worthy young? men who are lacking in means. These will want exercise, and in horticultural and kindred pursuits they will get it, and at the same time be learning something that will be of use to them in after life. I attribute my own strength to the days when I hoed corn and did similar work. It gave me physical vigor. Such work is natural and healthy and is a needed medicine for students." 

Trees and Vines. Mr. Hopkins guarded every tree on his place with jealous vigilance. He almost considered a tree as a sacred thing, declares Mr. Fowler. He would rarely consent to have one cut down, but preferred, if it was necessary to utilize otherwise the spaces occupied, to have it removed to another location. "No sir," he would say, “we cannot cut down the tree. It is easy enough to build a house, but It takes years to grow a tree." Clifton has long been noted for magnificent fruit, and it is probable that at one time the annual production of hot-house grapes there never was exceeded for the amount of space occupied. Mr. Hopkins was exceedingly fond of hot-house grapes, and frequently surprised his friends with the presents from his graperies. The yield, however, became so great that Mr. Fowler was instructed to sell the surplus. "Not with the idea of making money,” Mr. Hopkins said, "but it is wrong, sir, to waste anything, and the sale will help pay expenses." It did, and one season's surplus was sold for more than what the hot-houses cost to build. It was in the markets that Mrs. Ross Winans first purchased a bunch of the grapes from Mr. Hopkins's houses, which led to the building of Mr. Winans's hot-house graperies. 

Beautiful Scenery. Mr. Fowler has so long been identified with Clifton gardens that the association has greatly endeared the place to him. Through his direction he has seen the place gradually Improve until it was in the very zenith of its glory, with its boxwood-bordered walks and wealth of rare flowers and shrubs, its beautiful trees and costly marble statues that once were scattered amid what was almost a veritable Garden of Eden. The visitor entered the grounds from the Harford road, through an old English arched gateway with small-windowed lodges on either side, and came upon a stately mansion surrounded by splendid oaks, survivors of the forest primeval. When all these were in their glory Clifton was a charming estate, rarely excelled in any country. It is a sad thing, as Mr. Fowler declares, to see all this gradually going to needless ruin.

Rare Specimens of Foliage. There are many rare trees not found in parks usually, and some that have never been seen in public parks, scattered here and there in Clifton. Near the mansion is a clump of several kinds of magnolias and evergreen planted by Mr. Fowler in April 1861. Some of the trees are now over 30 feet high, and when the magnolias, honeysuckles and other shrubs are in bloom the clump is a realistic picture of tropical scenery that is picturesque in the extreme. Among the rare trees at Clifton are two Cedars of Lebanon, a grand English walnut 3 feet in diameter and several magnificent cypresses, one of which is over 100 feet high its symmetrical beauty seldom equaled even in the far South. There are also cypress, Japan and Norway spruce, Spanish pines, hemlock, Gingko Biloba; maidenhair tree, the most curious and anomalous of trees considered a sort of "connecting link" between conifers and flowering trees: European larch, Austrian pine, purple weeping birch and many others. In many instances the trees are in clumps or Just close enough to each other to bring out the beauty of variegated foliage. The tinted foliage of the liquid amber, maples and weeping purple beech and others, interspersed with the shapely conifers form conspicuous features of wondrous beauty in the fall season at Clifton. 

Shrubs and Tropical Plants. With all these magnificent trees there are also many unusually choice shrub specimens of rare bloom and beautiful foliage. In the hot-house are many hue tropical plants of large size. Among the other novelties is an extensive collection of acacias, raised from seed which Mr. Fowler brought from Australia and kept thirty years before planting. The acacias are objects of striking beauty, both in foliage and flower. Some of the varieties produce eutichu and gum arabic, while some yield large quantities of tannin. 

It is suggested that if the estate were purchased for public park purposes it would be a good idea to establish on at least part of the ground’s botanical gardens on an elaborate scale. This idea properly carried out, it is urged, would make the horticultural and agricultural features doubly interesting to students as well as to the general public. Special attention, if this plan is followed, could be devoted to the cultivation of plants and shrubs which are useful for medicinal purposes. 

View from the Mansion. The old mansion, built in 1802, is still a conspicuous building. It is a fine specimen of architecture, mainly English in style, and its excellent condition at the present time Is evidence of its substantial structure. Mr. Hopkins added to the front of the mansion a high tower, which was also utilized in securing an arched driveway, which afforded protection for persons arriving and departing from the mansion during inclement weather. From the top of this tower is afforded the idea of the excellence of the location of Clifton for a park. There can be had a particularly fine and extended view of the city and surrounding country. To the west the lake and other points in Druid Hill Park and the surrounding country far beyond spread out like a vast panorama. Anne Arundel county is seen to the south, down the bay, even to the naked eye. Fort Carroll stands out with remarkable distinctness, while the scene of approaching and departing vessels forms an exquisite marine view seldom surpassed. To the east the eye sweeps over Canton and neighboring localities, further to the north there is an almost unbroken landscape that stretches far beyond the focus of the unaided eye. Still further north the observer notes Gardenville and many other Baltimore county hamlets and farm-houses, the quiet agricultural picture forming a pretty and effective contrast to the bustle of the city on one side and the charming loveliness of the Chesapeake on the other.

Lakes and Drives. The view of the city is very impressive, and every prominent point in it is easily located. In the immediate foreground, a trifle to the left of the mansion, is Lake Clifton, while bordering on the west Is the Garrett estate, in front of which lies the village of Homestead. The only thing to mar the whole view is the open cut of the Belt Railroad through the property. The outlook from the tower shows that there are a number of streets that would make suitable avenues to the proposed Hopkins Park. The drives could be made to command much finer views than can be had in any of our present parks. The highest point at Clifton is amid a group of fine chestnut and oak trees near the Harford road. From this point only a narrow strip of land separates the estate from Lake Montebello, and if this strip should also be secured the city would own a continuous section embracing the municipal property surrounding Lake Montebello. This would make a delightful extension for drives. The extension of Clifton for a park would do for Northeast Baltimore what Druid Hill Park has accomplished for North Baltimore and what Patterson Park has done for that part of the city in its vicinity.

Homewood Park. The action of the Citizens Improvement Association of North Baltimore in appointing a committee, consisting of Messrs. Winfield J. Taylor, Samuel R. Walte and E.B. Hunting, to consult with Mr. Wm. Wyman as to his willingness to give the city ground for Homewood Park and also to confer with the city officers on this subject is rousing considerable interest. Some years ago the Wyman heirs generously offered this land, embracing about six acres, to the city for a park, coupled with certain conditions as to Its preservation, but the ordinance accepting the gift failed to become a law. The conditions do not any longer apply, and it is thought the city will be now very willing to accept the park. The land Itself is admirably adapted for park purposes, is convenient to the street cars, is in a lovely neighborhood and is well watered by a picturesque stream. It abounds in valuable springs and is graced with stately oaks and magnificent beech trees. The land lies in and along the bed and sides of a pretty valley, and is situated on Charles street avenue, where It Is intersected on the south by Twenty-ninth street and on the north by Waverly avenue and Thirty-first street.

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[1] Information for this essay was gathered from (1) the 1850 census, (2) an 1852 article in the Baltimore Sun about improvement projects undertaken at the Clifton estate (reproduced in full above), and (3) a paper written in 2010 by Lauren Emily Schiszik, "Invisible in the ―Elysian Fields: An Argument for the Inclusion of Archaeological Resources in Clifton Park‘s Master Plan," for the degree of Master of Historic Preservation from the School of Architecture, Planning, and Preservation at the University of Maryland, College Park, available at https://drum.lib.umd.edu/bitstream/1903/11069/1/L.Schiszik%20final%20paper%20for%20. 



Portion of map that shows the location of Johns Hopkins' Clifton estate, northeast of the city limits of Baltimore and adjacent to Harford Road. Source: Ed Papenfuse.

Clip from "Hopkins Park," Baltimore Sun, February 14, 1893. Source: newspaper.com. 

Tax assessment record for Clifton in 1941, the year Johns Hopkins purchased the estate. Source: Maryland State Archives.

Revivion Log

3/15/22: Added notation about misspellings of Waddell, Saunders, and Merker. 

7/29/2023: Added additonal details in top text, added transcritpion of and clip from 1893 Sun article.